STATE FAIR

Catch them while you can: Cricket nachos debut at Wisconsin State Fair

Jordan C. Axelson

Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

The Wisconsin State Fair loves to put new spins on familiar food favorites: pizzas shaped like ice cream cones, Krispy Kreme cheeseburgers, SPAM-and-cheese curds.

And now cricket nachos, featuring real California crickets.

All Things Jerky has been sharing insect snacks at the fair since 2011, but this year the vendor expanded its menu of bug-centric treats beyond chocolate-covered scorpions and ant lollipops.

“We wanted to do something different and fun. It seemed like nachos were a good thing. And why not crickets?” said Jess Jerky, the owner of All Things Jerky.

The crickets are farm-raised specifically for consumption and dehydrated before shipping, which gives them a crunchy texture similar to popcorn.

“Crickets are more popular than worms,” said Jerky. “But I always say that the worms are easier to eat. The legs and wings don’t get stuck in your teeth.”

Despite the ick factor that can accompany six-legged snacks, Jerky said that she was “shocked” at the popularity of the nachos. “I had to have a shipment of extra crickets overnighted because we’ve gone through so many. I’m probably going to call and order a few thousand more today,” she said.

Interestingly, customers excited by the prospect of trying cricket nachos always seemed to be accompanied by those who perturbed by the idea. However, the perturbed ones still seemed to enjoy watching the experience unfold, even if they didn’t taste the snack themselves.

Steve Janetski (left) and Jordan Mikkelsen taste cricket nachos from All Things Jerky at the Wisconsin State Fair.

Steve Janetski and Jordan Mikkelsen visited All Things Jerky as part of their annual state fair food tour with friends. Although Janetski quickly purchased the nachos, he and Mikkelsen hesitated once the item was in hand.

Thanks to cajoling from their entourage, they each ate a chip. Janetski said it tasted “like nachos with extra chew” and that the cricket in particular was “a little chalky.”

Someone said he should get a kiss afterward, but his wife didn't volunteer.

Similarly, Rick Zanow tried to share the nachos with his two grandsons. While the boys were happy to encourage their grandpa to try the cricket nachos, no amount of coaxing could persuade them to join in.

Since the crickets seemed to be overwhelmed by the texture of the chips and the flavor of the cheese, Zanow plucked out one of the crickets to eat it separately. “It tastes a little mealy when you eat it by itself,” he said. “Actually I wish they had more crickets.”

Although insect consumption may seem like a novelty in the United States, in reality Americans eat insects all the time.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration sets food defect levels to account for “non-hazardous, naturally occurring, unavoidable defects” found in our food. Under these guidelines, 50 grams of wheat flour may contain up to 75 insect fragments; 100 grams of tomato paste may have up to 30 fly eggs; and 100 grams of beer hops may contain up to 2,500 aphids.

While these culinary additions may provoke some wrinkled noses, remember that insects are excellent sources of vitamins, minerals and protein. Crickets in particular contain about the same amount of protein per gram as skinless chicken.

Additionally, insects are touted as a sustainable food source because they convert their feed more efficiently into body mass and require fewer resources to raise than chickens, pigs or cows. In fact, the United Nations issued a report in 2013 that called for the expansion of insect farming to support the growing worldwide population, which is projected to exceed 9 billion people by 2050.

Because of the nutritional and sustainability benefits, some entrepreneurs are adopting cricket flour and cricket protein to make chips and granola bars and even brew beer. Jerky said these products can be a nice option so “you don’t have to eat with (the insects) looking at you.”

For new and old fans of edible bugs, Jerky said they are welcoming customer requests for the 2018 state fair. Currently tarantula and deep-fried scorpion are on the list.

And for those still on the fence about trying insects, Jerky said, “You’re here at the fair. You’ve got to go big or go home. ... It’s mind over matter. You think because they’re bugs that they won’t taste good, but they actually do.”